Pimping the Historic Future
Photos!
Jumpers are coming back, and I don't mean the British word for sweater kind of jumpers. I mean a Jumpsuit - with tapered legs, a waist and a zipper up to the neck. Where one wears a gray sweatsuit jumpsuit is beyond me, but H&M has a vision. I hope all the fashionable school girls with their mini Catholic uniform plaid skirts and pointy toed heels know how to make it the perfect outfit. What did happen to the days of measuring a uniform skirt to the knee? But I digress.
Newcastle is not only about the retro, futuristic fashion being peddled in all the shops. It is "real" England; much more like our Midwest than London. It's a maze of new modern and old industrial buildings. It's regular people - not thin, fashionable or rich enough to incur visitor jealousy. This is a area of regular working people. There is a healthy dose of tattoos, punk rock slacker kids and people in tracksuits. The accent is strong and muddled like the Scottish accent. I strain to eavesdrop. I am currently at about a 5 to 1 ratio of words said to words understood - a slightly better ratio than in Spain. However, there is still the trace of British loveliness where curse words sound rhythmic and meaningful.
This city - actually it's Newcastle on the north of the Tyne river and Gateshead on the south - is undergoing an impressive revitalization. An old ship building and factory town, it is now being pimped as a vacation destination for shopping and art. For such a tiny city, there is an impressive amount of modern art museums and galleries. Today I went to the Baltic, a free modern art museum and the SAGE Center, a shiny silver bubble of performing art.
I hiked across town to The Biscuit Factory to covet buyable art that was well outside my price range even before the depressing conversion rate.
My travels around town mostly involved me walking to a street, pulling out the map, studying it for 5 minutes, squinting while looking for invisible road signs, heading up a street, stopping at the next intersection, and pulling out map. Walk. Stop. Look. Repeat.
I walked for hours today, mostly because my ability to buy an all day metro/bus pass was foiled by my inability to carry 5 quid in coins. The modern convenience of buying travel cards with ATM cards has not made it Newcastle. A water and coffee purchase later, I have an all day travel card.
The upside is I got to see a lot of town. There were the old historic buildings, the revitalized river area called the Quay, the Millennium Bridge that opens and closes like an eye, the street full of mattress shops, the pedestrian shopping street, the diner full of old people having the breakfast special, and the crooked narrow streets loaded with Indian restaurants and kebob stands.
Next up, a trip to Chinatown for dinner, and then perhaps in search of a pub. Tomorrow, I head out to Alnwick Castle, better known as Hogwarts! There is a gigantic 6,000 feet high tree house, the Labyrinth and Poison and Serpent Gardens. If I get back early enough, I might head back to the shops. While the jumpsuit isn't quite my thing, the rest of 1983 was calling me. Dark jackets with big buttons! A polka-dotted school girl dress with a big belt, and my favorite - those dressy shirts with the big poofy necktie things. It's all ridiculous, but I can't stay away. Good thing I've got time to settle into the inevitability of me wearing this stuff, since it'll be another year before we see it in Austin.
Jumpers are coming back, and I don't mean the British word for sweater kind of jumpers. I mean a Jumpsuit - with tapered legs, a waist and a zipper up to the neck. Where one wears a gray sweatsuit jumpsuit is beyond me, but H&M has a vision. I hope all the fashionable school girls with their mini Catholic uniform plaid skirts and pointy toed heels know how to make it the perfect outfit. What did happen to the days of measuring a uniform skirt to the knee? But I digress.
Newcastle is not only about the retro, futuristic fashion being peddled in all the shops. It is "real" England; much more like our Midwest than London. It's a maze of new modern and old industrial buildings. It's regular people - not thin, fashionable or rich enough to incur visitor jealousy. This is a area of regular working people. There is a healthy dose of tattoos, punk rock slacker kids and people in tracksuits. The accent is strong and muddled like the Scottish accent. I strain to eavesdrop. I am currently at about a 5 to 1 ratio of words said to words understood - a slightly better ratio than in Spain. However, there is still the trace of British loveliness where curse words sound rhythmic and meaningful.
This city - actually it's Newcastle on the north of the Tyne river and Gateshead on the south - is undergoing an impressive revitalization. An old ship building and factory town, it is now being pimped as a vacation destination for shopping and art. For such a tiny city, there is an impressive amount of modern art museums and galleries. Today I went to the Baltic, a free modern art museum and the SAGE Center, a shiny silver bubble of performing art.
I hiked across town to The Biscuit Factory to covet buyable art that was well outside my price range even before the depressing conversion rate.
My travels around town mostly involved me walking to a street, pulling out the map, studying it for 5 minutes, squinting while looking for invisible road signs, heading up a street, stopping at the next intersection, and pulling out map. Walk. Stop. Look. Repeat.
I walked for hours today, mostly because my ability to buy an all day metro/bus pass was foiled by my inability to carry 5 quid in coins. The modern convenience of buying travel cards with ATM cards has not made it Newcastle. A water and coffee purchase later, I have an all day travel card.
The upside is I got to see a lot of town. There were the old historic buildings, the revitalized river area called the Quay, the Millennium Bridge that opens and closes like an eye, the street full of mattress shops, the pedestrian shopping street, the diner full of old people having the breakfast special, and the crooked narrow streets loaded with Indian restaurants and kebob stands.
Next up, a trip to Chinatown for dinner, and then perhaps in search of a pub. Tomorrow, I head out to Alnwick Castle, better known as Hogwarts! There is a gigantic 6,000 feet high tree house, the Labyrinth and Poison and Serpent Gardens. If I get back early enough, I might head back to the shops. While the jumpsuit isn't quite my thing, the rest of 1983 was calling me. Dark jackets with big buttons! A polka-dotted school girl dress with a big belt, and my favorite - those dressy shirts with the big poofy necktie things. It's all ridiculous, but I can't stay away. Good thing I've got time to settle into the inevitability of me wearing this stuff, since it'll be another year before we see it in Austin.

